
Tokugawa Ieyasu died in 1616 and was first buried here, on a mountain above the sea. The far more famous shrine at Nikko was built afterwards. Kunozan is the original, is smaller, is more densely decorated per square metre, and receives a small fraction of the visitors.
The main hall is a National Treasure in the gongen-zukuri style — lacquered, gilded and carved to a degree that is hard to photograph and easy to underestimate from pictures. The ropeway from Nihondaira crosses a valley of strawberry greenhouses with the bay behind.
Possible by taxi both ways with no margin. The market is the safer choice.
Nihondaira, ropeway, shrine, and back with time for lunch.
Then Miho or Shizuoka city in the afternoon.
It is the original. Ieyasu was first buried here in 1616 and the Nikko shrine was built afterwards. Kunozan is smaller and more densely decorated, its main hall is a National Treasure, and it receives a small fraction of Nikko's visitors — which on a port day is decisive.
Taxi to Nihondaira, about twenty-five minutes, then the ropeway across the valley. The alternative is a 1,159-step stone stairway from the coast, which is real and is not a port-day activity. Check the last ropeway down — it closes earlier than the shrine.
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