On 15 July, at four fifty-nine in the morning, a one-tonne float leaves Kushida Shrine carried at a run by twenty-six men, with hundreds more rotating in along a five-kilometre course. Seven teams follow at five-minute intervals. It is over by six, and it has run for roughly 780 years.
The tradition dates the festival to 1241, when a monk is said to have been carried through a plague-stricken Hakata on a platform, scattering purifying water. Whatever the origin, the neighbourhood teams — the nagare — have organised it for centuries and still do.
The kazariyama are the decorated ones: towers of figures up to about ten metres, put up around the city on 1 July and photographed by everybody. One stands in the grounds of Kushida Shrine all year, which is how a cruise passenger arriving in November can still see the thing.
The kakiyama are what actually races: stripped down, roughly a tonne, carried on the shoulders of a rotating crew at a genuine run.
The float is timed from the moment it clears the shrine. Teams train for months and the difference between them is measured in seconds over five kilometres.
Participants avoid cucumbers for the duration, because a sliced cucumber resembles the crest of the shrine’s deity. Men in the teams do not eat them; some families in Hakata still do not buy them in July.
The costume is a shimekomi loincloth and a happi coat, and the men are soaked continuously by spectators throwing water — which is both cooling and, in the original logic, purification.
UNESCO inscribed the festival in 2016, as part of a group of Japanese float festivals.
The decorated floats go up on the first, and the whole city changes. The final run — Oiyama, on the fifteenth — starts before five in the morning, and people arrive from about three to get a position. It is free, it is enormous, and it is genuinely one of the great things to see in Japan.
If your ship is in port on the fourteenth or fifteenth, this outranks everything else on the itinerary.
A monk carried through a plague-stricken town
And still do
Up to ten metres, and photographed by everyone
One tonne, five kilometres, seven teams
With Japan’s other great float festivals
Whatever month you arrive, go to Kushida Shrine — a full decorated float stands there all year.
From 1 to 15 July. Decorated floats go up across the city on the first, and the final race — Oiyama — starts at 4:59 in the morning on the fifteenth, when seven teams carry one-tonne floats five kilometres through Fukuoka at five-minute intervals. UNESCO inscribed it in 2016.
Because a sliced cucumber resembles the crest of the deity of Kushida Shrine. Men in the teams do not eat them for the duration of the festival, and some Hakata families still avoid buying them in July at all.
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