- +0:00
Shuttle into townFree shuttle to the ferry terminal on most lines — town is 40–50 min on foot, so ride
- +0:25
The public marketIsland fish downstairs, food court above, and the whole Yaeyama larder in one building
Full guide: The town → - +1:10
Yaeyama sobaRound thin noodles in light pork broth. Not Okinawa soba, and locals will explain the difference
- +1:50
Miyara DunchiThe only surviving Ryukyuan noble house in these islands, built 1819
- +2:30
Walk back
Transport spend: ¥0. Lunch ~¥2,000.
If you're running late: The town is flat and close. If the heat is serious, the market and the arcades are both covered.
- +0:00
Taxi or tour to Kabira Bay~35 minutes north. Fix the return before you get out
Full guide: Kabira Bay → - +0:45
The glass-bottom boatThe only way to see the water properly — swimming is prohibited here
- +1:45
The headland viewpointThe photograph everyone comes for, and it is genuinely that colour
- +2:30
Back toward town
- +3:15
Ishigaki beef, at lunch pricesThe same animal costs a fraction of the dinner price at midday
- +4:30
Back to the ship
Transport spend: ~¥6,000 per couple by taxi. Boat ~¥1,300.
If you're running late: No taxi rank at Kabira. Book the return, or agree a pickup time with the driver who brought you.
- +0:00
Shuttle to the island ferry terminalBuy a Taketomi return and note the last boat
- +0:30
Ferry to Taketomi10–15 minutes
Full guide: Taketomi → - +1:00
Walk the villageCoral walls, red tiles, and white sand lanes that residents rake by hand each morning
- +2:00
A water buffalo cart, narrated with sanshinSlow, and the driver sings. It is not a gimmick here
- +3:00
Kondoi beach, or lunch in the villageThe star-sand beach is a short bicycle ride
- +4:30
Ferry back, then Ishigaki beef in town
Transport spend: ~¥1,500 pp ferry return. Buffalo cart ~¥2,000.
If you're running late: Ferries stop early. Take the second-to-last boat back, not the last one, and you have a whole spare crossing in reserve.
- +0:00
Shuttle in, then Euglena MallCovered arcade, 3–5 min from the ferry terminal drop-off
Full guide: The town → - +0:30
The public market, both floorsFish, awamori, salt, chilli oil, and lunch upstairs
Full guide: The town → - +1:30
Yaeyama MuseumSmall, indoors, and the only place that explains the 1771 tsunami properly
- +2:15
Ishigaki beef for lunch, then minsah weaving shopsBoth indoors and both genuinely local
- +3:15
Back to the ship
Transport spend: ~¥1,000 pp. Museum ~¥200.
If you're running late: Kabira and Taketomi in heavy rain are a wet boat and a wet village. Neither is worth the fare in a squall.
GETTING AROUND — the facts that don't change by day (today's times: ship's program or Google Maps)
Town & the island ferry terminal: ① Ship or port shuttle to the Euglena ferry terminal, ~10 min — most lines run one free; paid shuttles appear only when they don’t
SHOW THIS TO A TAXI DRIVER — 運転手さんへ
| Please take me back to the cruise ship (Ishigaki port) | クルーズ船乗り場までお願いします |
| Taketomi island | 竹富島 |
| Kabira Bay | 川平湾 |
| The public market and Euglena Mall | 石垣市公設市場 |
| Miyara Dunchi | 宮良殿内 |
| Hirakubozaki, the northern cape | 平久保崎灯台 |
Point at a line. Taxis are metered and honest; tipping is not expected in Japan.
THE TWO-MINUTE PORT TALK — read aloud at breakfast
Yaeyama. Ishigaki is in Okinawa Prefecture and is not Okinawan. The Yaeyama islands are further from Naha than Tokyo is from Osaka, closer to Taipei than to their own prefectural capital, and they have their own languages, weaves, songs and a long memory of being taxed by people who lived somewhere else.
The Meiwa tsunami. On the morning of 4 April 1771, an earthquake off the Yaeyamas sent a wave into these islands that killed roughly twelve thousand people — about a third of everyone alive here. Boulders the size of houses are still sitting inland where the water put them.
Five and four. A minsah belt carries two blocks of squares — one of five, one of four — repeated down its length. The numbers are a pun in the local language: itsu no yo made mo, "for all time." A woman wove one and gave it to a man, and the belt said what she was not going to say out loud.
The rules of Taketomi. In the 1970s outside developers began buying land on Taketomi. The islanders responded with a written charter: do not sell, do not soil, do not destroy, do not damage, and make use of what is here. Fifty years later the village looks the way it does because of that document.
The one rule: every plan already banks 60 minutes before all-aboard. Spend that margin on nothing.
One more tripwire: phones auto-switch to local time, but all-aboard runs on ship time. Check the daily program's clock, not your lock screen.Pick what to see and eat on the
Ishigaki guide or the
Top 10.