Ports are not interchangeable. These are the things that happened here — and only here — told properly, then tied to what you can see, taste and book while your ship waits.
A prefecture that eats more noodles than anywhere in Japan, because it could not grow rice
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Depopulated, industrially damaged, and then rebuilt around museums
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Seven hundred and eighty-five steps, and dogs sent up them on their owners’ behalf
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Borrowed scenery, 1,400 hand-pruned pines, and a grievance about rankings
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Three thousand islands, tidal races, and the families who taxed everyone who passed
Read the story →Cruise seasons run spring to autumn, but the port changes underneath them. What each month actually offers — and the traps.
Ferries increase as the season starts. Ritsurin’s plums finish and the cherries begin.
Ritsurin and Tamamo Park both flower. The best-looking month of the year.
Dry, mild and long-lit. Island ferries are pleasant rather than hot.
The Inland Sea side is drier than the Pacific side. Arcades and udon are unaffected.
Island hopping is at its easiest. Start early and eat udon at midday.
The islands are busy. Ritsurin opens before six — use that.
Ferries can cancel. Late September is excellent.
Clear, mild, and the Setouchi Triennale runs in its autumn session in festival years.
Late November, with evening illumination. The garden at its finest.
Few ships. Udon is a winter food and the arcades are covered.
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