PORT OF JAPAN
Kannawa

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Spot guide · Beppu 別府

Kannawa

Steam out of the drains, and a hole in the ground you cook lunch in

Photo: Japanexperterna / CC BY-SA 3.0
From the berth
~20 min by bus/taxi
Uphill from the port
Time needed
2h
Including steaming your own lunch
Hours
Steam kitchen ~9:00–20:00
Last order well before close
Cost
~¥1,500 incl. ingredients
Basket rental separate
Why it's worth your hours

Kannawa is the district where Beppu's steam is thickest — it comes out of drains, gardens and the gaps between houses, and on a cold morning the whole neighbourhood disappears into it. This is the yukemuri view that is a designated national scenic asset.

At the Jigoku Mushi Kobo you buy raw ingredients, load a woven basket, and lower it into a stone steam chamber. Ten to twenty minutes depending on what you chose. The steam is around 100°C and slightly salty, so it seasons as it cooks — households here have done this for centuries and some kitchens still have their own steam box.

What you actually do here

Five things the plaques won't tell you

  1. Eggs, corn and sweet potato are the reliable choices. Prawns are the good one.
  2. Wear something you do not mind smelling faintly of sulphur for the rest of the day.
  3. Free and near-free foot baths are scattered through the lanes. Bring a small towel.
  4. Cold mornings make the steam dramatic. November is the photograph.
  5. The hells circuit starts near here — but Kannawa itself is free and better.

The steam is around 100°C and slightly salty, so it seasons as it cooks — households here have done this for centuries and some kitchens still have their own steam box.

Eat nearby

The picks

The whole Top 10 →
If you'd rather have it arranged

Guided ways to do Kannawa

Booked before you sail — there is no tour desk at the pier. Booking through these links supports the site.

DIY or book? →
While you are here

More in Beppu

The Beppu guide →
Quick answers

Questions people ask here

How does the Kannawa steam kitchen work?

You buy raw ingredients — prawns, eggs, corn, sweet potato, vegetables — load them into a woven basket and lower it into a stone geothermal chamber for ten to twenty minutes. The steam runs at around 100°C and is slightly salty, so it seasons the food as it cooks and very little needs adding.

Is Kannawa better than the Beppu hells?

For most short calls, yes. The hells circuit costs around ¥2,200 and takes two and a half hours to look at water you cannot touch. Kannawa is free to walk, has scattered foot baths, and lets you cook your own lunch in the ground — it is closer to how the town actually works.

Whatever the plan: back aboard 60 minutes before all-aboard. Full port context on the Beppu guide.