
Seventy-five hectares, six ponds and thirteen landscaped hills, begun by a local lord in the early 1600s and worked on for over a century by successive Matsudaira daimyo. Mount Shiun stands directly behind it and is treated as part of the composition — borrowed scenery, on a scale few gardens attempt.
It is bigger than Kenroku-en and Koraku-en, is often argued to be the finest garden in Japan, and is not one of the official Three Great Gardens — a slight the prefecture has never fully forgiven. The practical consequence for you is that it is far less crowded.
Tram out, sixty minutes in the south garden, tram back.
Ninety minutes does it justice, and leaves time for udon and the castle.
On a long call this competes with Naoshima. Decide at breakfast.
It is considerably larger — about seventy-five hectares against Kenroku-en’s eleven — took over a century to complete, and uses Mount Shiun behind it as borrowed scenery. It is not counted among Japan’s official Three Great Gardens, which is a long-standing local grievance and the reason it is far quieter than the three that are.
Sixty minutes for the south circuit, which holds the classic views, and ninety to do both circuits properly. Add fifteen minutes each way from the cruise berth by tram, which makes it comfortable even on a three-hour call.
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