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Bonito seared over burning straw, salted, and eaten before the smoke clears — Kochi’s defining dish done theatrically at Myojinmaru’s Hirome Market stall. Non-negotiable.
Bonito seared over burning straw, and eaten before the smoke clears
Katsuo no tataki is bonito seared hard over burning rice straw, then sliced thick and eaten with salt or citrus. The straw fire is the point: it is hot enough to colour the outside in seconds without cooking through. Kochi consumes more bonito per household than any other prefecture, and the straw is still lit in front of you.
A metre of rice straw burns at around 800°C for less than a minute. The outside of the fish cooks; the inside does not. Everything about this dish is that thirty seconds.
Attributed variously to hygiene and to a lord's ban on raw bonito
The first northbound run — lean, clean, prized for freshness
The returning fish, fat and rich. The other camp's choice
And seared in the open at Hirome Market all day
Hirome Market, any hour. Myojinmaru sears in the open — order shio-tataki and take it to a shared table.
The one the queue agrees on, the one people who live here use instead, and the one nearest your ship. Opening days change; check before you build a day around one.
Sears bonito over burning straw in front of you inside Hirome Market. The flame is the show and the method.
Open in Google MapsWhere locals goYasubee安兵衛 ひろめ市場店A few metres away in the same hall, and where Kochi drinkers end up.
Open in Google MapsClosest to the berthTosa Ryoma土佐料理 司 高知本店A sit-down room rather than a shared table, if the market is too loud.
Open in Google MapsEach of these still lands you back aboard with the hour to spare on a 6-hour stop ashore.
Each one is a finished day we have walked and timed, with this stop in it. Read the route rather than assembling it yourself.
Each of these still lands you back aboard with the hour to spare.
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