~2h — the round trip from the gangway, with the 60-minute margin kept aside.
Tap a photo to see it large. 4 photographs, each credited.
The restaurant that invented champon in 1899 still ladles it under a chandeliered dome by the harbor. Noodles, seafood, pork bones — Nagasaki in one bowl.
What happens when a port cooks for three countries at once
Champon was created at this restaurant in 1899 by its Chinese owner, who wanted to feed poor Chinese students cheaply: noodles, pork, seafood and vegetables boiled together in one pot. Shikairo still serves it and keeps a small museum upstairs about the dish it invented.
A Chinese restaurateur invented a cheap bowl for homesick students in 1899 and accidentally created the most Nagasaki thing there is: a dish that is not from anywhere, made of everything.
Sugar, sponge cake and the technique for both arrive
Still hand-mixing castella batter four centuries later
One round table for Japanese, Chinese and Western courses
At Shikairo, to feed poor Chinese students cheaply
Shikairo sits near Glover Garden, minutes from the wharf. Chinatown and Fukusaya are both walkable — this is a port where the food is the sightseeing.
The one the queue agrees on, the one people who live here use instead, and the one nearest your ship. Opening days change; check before you build a day around one.
Champon was invented here in 1899 to feed poor Chinese students. There is a small museum about the dish upstairs.
Open in Google MapsWhere locals goKozanro江山楼 中華街本店In Shinchi Chinatown, and the house locals name when they want the richer version.
Open in Google MapsClosest to the berthShinchi Chinatown長崎新地中華街A compact block of champon and sara-udon shops, close to the tram and to the wharf.
Open in Google MapsBoth pins on one map, so the distance is a fact rather than a feeling.
Each of these still lands you back aboard with the hour to spare on a 6-hour stop ashore.
Each one is a finished day we have walked and timed, with this stop in it. Read the route rather than assembling it yourself.
Each of these still lands you back aboard with the hour to spare.
3 hr for bothPortuguese sponge cake perfected over 400 years — Fukusaya’s 1624 original shop still hand-mixes every batch.
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4 hr for bothFor two centuries this fan-shaped islet was Japan’s only window on the West.
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4 hr for bothJapan’s oldest church, built for returning exiles — the discovery of hidden Christians here in 1865 stunned the world.
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