Photo: GuillemMedina / CC BY-SA 4.0Higashi Chaya is the largest and best known of Kanazawa's three old geisha districts. The city's tourism site says the chaya houses were moved to three specific districts in 1820, which is why the street keeps the look of the 1820s: wooden houses with a latticed ground floor (called kimusuko) and guest rooms on the upper floor.
You can see inside two of the houses. Ochaya Shima was built when the district was, in 1820, and charges adults ¥500; Kaikaro is a refurbished chaya more than 200 years old with a sunken-hearth tea service, and charges adults ¥750. Many other houses now serve as cafes, restaurants and shops. The Hakuichi Higashiyama store sells gold-leaf goods and a soft serve covered in gold leaf, priced by the maker at ¥1,189.
The catch is distance and crowds. It is more than an hour from the ship, the lanes are short, and the teahouses close by early evening. Go as early as the bus allows, since the best light is before the tour buses arrive. If you only have a half-day, Kenroku-en and the castle are the better value; this suits ships that stay eight hours or more.
Five things the plaques won't tell you
- Take the Loop Bus from Kanazawa Station East Gate stop 7 and get off at Hashiba-cho; Kaikaro's own page gives a 5-minute walk from there.
- Buy the ¥800 one-day pass before boarding if you plan three or more loop rides; a single ride is ¥220.
- Ochaya Shima is open all year; Kaikaro closes on irregular days, so check its calendar page before you set your heart on it.
- Hakuichi's Higashiyama shop is open 9:00–18:00; its cafe closes at 17:00.
- On returning to the ship by route bus, remember that Suica-type cards are not accepted: use cash, a contactless credit card, or Hokutetsu's own ICa card.
The Hakuichi Higashiyama store sells gold-leaf goods and a soft serve covered in gold leaf, priced by the maker at ¥1,189.
Guided days from Kanazawa
Booked before you sail — there is no tour desk at the pier. Booking through these links supports the site.
More in Kanazawa
Questions people ask here
How do I get from Kanazawa cruise port to Higashi Chaya?
Take bus 04 from the Kanazawa Port Cruise Terminal stop to Kanazawa Station (28 to 35 minutes), cross to the East Gate, take the Loop Bus from stop 7 to Hashiba-cho (¥220) and walk about 5 minutes. A taxi from Kanazawa Station is about 10 minutes by the city's tourism site. Allow around 75 minutes in all.
Can I go inside a geisha teahouse in Higashi Chaya?
Yes, at two of them. Ochaya Shima (¥500 for adults, open daily 9:30 to 17:30 from March to November) and Kaikaro (¥750 for adults, 10:00 to 17:00, irregular closing days). Tea service costs extra at both.
How long do you need in Higashi Chaya?
Visit Kanazawa's city guide puts it at about 60 minutes. With a teahouse tour and a gold-leaf ice cream, 90 minutes is comfortable.