Photo: Minsu B / Pexels
The historyTwelve Korean missions to Japan, and a Japanese trading post here ten times the size of Dejima
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The warFor most of 1950, free Korea was this city and a perimeter around it
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The marketKorea's largest fish market, run for seventy years by women
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The foodFour dishes this city invented because it had to
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The film cityHow a port city became the centre of Asian cinema in about a decade
Read the story →Cruise seasons run spring to autumn, but the port changes underneath them.
Blossom arrives around the start of April here — later than Kyushu, earlier than Seoul.
Dry, mild, clear. Everything outdoors works, including Taejongdae and the coastal trails.
Comfortable everywhere before the humidity. Milmyeon season opens in earnest.
Heavy and concentrated. Jagalchi and the covered markets carry the day.
Haeundae in August is a domestic holiday crowd. Go early or skip it.
Late September turns pleasant and the cruise calls stack up.
Clear, mild, and the film festival runs for about ten days. The best time to be here.
Autumn colour on the hills, hot eomuk on the streets, and no crowds.
Warmer than Seoul but genuinely cold. This is when gukbap and street eomuk make sense.
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