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Sweet-potato shochu is this prefecture’s wine, and Satsuma kiriko — deep-cut colored crystal once made for the lords — is the take-home that outlives the bottle.
Glass that died for a century, and pottery made by prisoners of war
Satsuma kiriko is cut glass in coloured overlay, developed under the Shimazu in the 1850s, destroyed along with the domain workshops in the 1860s, and revived from surviving pieces only in 1985. The signature is a gradation in the cut edge that machine glass cannot reproduce. Satsuma also distils more shochu than any other prefecture.
One craft was killed by a British bombardment and rebuilt in 1985 by reverse-engineering museum specimens. The other was founded by Korean potters brought here against their will in 1598, and their descendants are still working.
Around eighty, as prisoners of the Korean campaigns; the Miyama kiln is founded
State industry under Shimazu Nariakira, alongside the cannon foundry
The patronage that funded the glass begins to unravel
The glass works is damaged; production later ceases and the technique is lost
The kiriko gallery and workshop sit inside Sengan-en, so the garden visit covers both. Miyama's kilns need a car and half a day.
Each of these still lands you back aboard with the hour to spare on a 6-hour stop ashore.
Each one is a finished day we have walked and timed, with this stop in it. Read the route rather than assembling it yourself.
Each of these still lands you back aboard with the hour to spare.
4 hr for bothThirty minutes at strolling pace past the stone walls of the samurai quarter, narrated by the runner.
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4 hr 30 min for bothThe fish cakes every Japanese supermarket imitates, eaten warm at the source.
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5 hr for bothThe original “polar bear” shaved ice — condensed milk, fruit, a face you will photograph before you eat it.
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