
A canal cut in 1615 by a merchant who died before it opened, lined for four centuries by theatres and then by the most aggressive shopfront signage in Japan. The running man has advertised here since 1935 and is now on his sixth version; the mechanical crab still moves its legs.
This is where Osaka does the thing Osaka does: eat standing up, loudly, without pretending it is refined. Takoyaki was invented in this city in 1935, kushikatsu belongs to the district south of here, and okonomiyaki is mixed into the batter rather than layered — a distinction Hiroshima will argue about.
Subway in, eat along the canal, subway back. Nothing else fits and nothing else is needed.
Castle in the morning, Kuromon and Dotonbori after.
Kyoto by day, then this after dark. The signs are the point and they need darkness.
Subway from Osakako station on the Chuo line with one change, about twenty-five minutes to Namba. A taxi from Tempozan takes roughly the same and removes the change if the subway map is intimidating.
Takoyaki first — invented in this city in 1935, and molten inside, so wait. Then okonomiyaki, which Osaka mixes into the batter rather than layering like Hiroshima. Eat both standing; sitting down at the first place with an English menu is how you get an average meal here.
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